special report: eu threat spotlights perfume makers\' secrets
by：Taiyi Electronic
2020-03-22
PARIS (Reuters)-
Luxury perfume brands are worried that the EU\'s upcoming measures to protect consumers from allergies may weaken the $25 billion global industry.
New laws may severely restrict or prohibit the use of natural ingredients in wine
Some perfume manufacturers have closed down.
But the legislation proposed by Brussels
A draft will be released early next year
It also caused a sensation for another reason.
It reveals the best-
Keep it secret in the industry: Many big brands have been adjusting their recipes for years.
\"This is a taboo in the industry.
People are afraid to comment on this, \"said Fflur Roberts, head of luxury at market research firm Euromonitor.
So far, the change in perfume formula is due to the increasing self-limitation of the industry
Regulatory Authority of the international Spice Association (IFRA)
Despite the shortage or cost of raw materials
Cutting also played a certain role. A new Europe-
Broader laws will force tougher adjustments.
The most affected brands will be those that have been in the perfume industry for more than half a century, such as Dior, Chanel and Guerlain.
All of these perfumes use many natural ingredients that were invented before scientists began to study the potential health hazards of perfumes. Chanel’s No.
One of the best in the world
The sale of perfume, named after its creator\'s fifth trial, was created in 1921.
Chanel declined to comment on whether it changed the world\'s pattern.
The same is true of the famous perfumes, Guerlain, Dior and luxury brands Hermes.
Perfume using natural ingredients.
Most luxury perfume brands do not want to disclose the fact that they have to adjust their perfume for fear of losing customers or damaging the luxury brands they have carefully nurtured.
However, it is difficult for perfume lovers to fool.
\"Consumers know their perfumes better than any expert,\" said Jean Guichard, head of the perfume school founded in Paris in 1946 by Swiss perfume maker Givaudan.
\"We didn\'t say anything to consumers, but they noticed that they might decide to choose another product when their fragrance is changed.
Brands need to be careful when reformulating fragrances because they may lose consumers.
\"If new or even stricter rules are adopted, hundreds of perfumes will have to be reformulated with synthetic allergens --free contents.
Many in the industry are concerned that this could threaten their business.
\"I\'m done before FA, and my perfume is full of these ingredients,\" Frederic Malle, who has high
End the company version of the perfume Frederick Mahler.
The impact on the entire luxury perfume brand will be \"like an atomic explosion, we will not be able to rebuild ourselves,\" he said.
Most of the premium perfumes are made of a mixture of natural ingredients and synthetic molecules.
Perfumes are made up of alcohol-diluted concentrates, usually from beets.
Depending on the complexity of the original recipe, it may take several hundred thousand euros to change a scent.
Perfume manufacturers say replacing natural ingredients with synthetic ingredients is rarely an improvement.
Since its establishment in 1973, IFRA-funded by perfume manufacturers such as Givaudan, New York-
Listed international spices and Germany\'s Symrise limit natural ingredients for a range of health reasons, from concerns about allergic reactions to concerns about cancer.
\"Most perfumes aged 20 or over have been reformulated several times because science has evolved and we want to ensure the safety of consumers,\" said Pierre Sivac, president of IFRA . \".
In recent decades, many perfume creators have considered the traditional essence of their craft core to be blacklisted.
Birch tar was removed from Guerlain\'s Shalimar a few decades ago because it was considered a cancer risk.
Clove oil and rose oil contain an ingredient called clove oil. Lavender contains linalool and can only be used in limited quantities if allergic.
Oakmoss is one of the most commonly used raw materials because it has a rich soil fragrance and is able to \"fix\" the perfume to last longer, which has become increasingly restricted due to concerns about skin sensitivity.
This means perfume like charymar.
5, according to industry experts, Dior\'s light dishes and poison, the opium of Yves Saint Laurent and the Anais of Kaka Harrell are just shadows of their original sense of smell self.
\"Eau Sauvage is a real original chef,\" retired perfume --
Pierre Bolden, the manufacturer of the creation of Dior\'s \"sweet life\" and Yves Saint Laurent\'s \"couse\", mentioned the fragrance of 1966.
\"It used to be very green and fresh.
Today, it has been replaced by something softer and more dull.
\"He argues that the smell has been stripped of by furocoumarins, an organic compound produced by plants such as bergamot, and exposure to the sun can lead to black spots on the skin.
Bolden said he was still wearing light perfume because it reminded him of his father, Rene, who served as deputy head of Dior perfume in the 1960 and 1970 s, overseeing the creation of the perfume.
Raymond Chalan worked together to create Annis and opium, both of which he believes have changed.
When it was launched in 1977, the original opium contained eugenol, as well as linalool and lemon.
Large doses of eugenol can cause liver damage, while linalool oxide can cause external sensation and exposure to pure lemon for a long time can stimulate the skin.
Edward fleshyer, who made Dior Poison in 1985, said perfume has changed since it came out.
\"I know the original formula. I think they (Dior)
Had to change gradually due to the new IFRA regulations.
Malle said: \"natural ingredients are softer than synthetic ingredients, giving perfume more depth and playing a subtle role on various notes, adding that, the limitations of IFRA gave him \"hundreds of hours\" and \"endless testing \".
However, if the industry has so far largely got rid of the dilemma of quietly adjusting perfumes, experts say it would be impossible if Europe supported the proposal to remove allergic substances from perfumes --
It\'s completely the manufacturer\'s palette.
Brigitte Aubert, 68year-
The old Paris interior designer gave it up in 1980 seconds after being allergic to Shalimar.
\"My neck is red, but I wear Shalimar all the time.
It\'s part of my identity and I can\'t give it up, \"she said.
\"It reminds me of those carefree days in Paris in the 1960 s.
\"Aubert is one of an estimated 5 million to 15 million people, accounting for 1 to 3% of the EU population, who are allergic or potentially allergic to natural ingredients contained in fine perfumes, according to a report issued by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety on July (SCCS)
An advisory body of the European Commission
Symptoms can range from severe rashes to spots to hayfever-like symptoms.
Europe is not the only region that pays more attention to the influence of perfumes.
Earlier this year, Republican Senator Michelle Peckham from New Hampshire proposed a bill in the State Council banning state employees in public contact from using strong perfumes.
The bill was not passed, but other lawmakers are considering re-introducing similar legislation.
At the same time, Portland, Oregon requires public workers and citizens who visit and use public spaces to restrict the use of fragrance products.
Some hospitals in the United StatesS.
Perfume is also prohibited.
The SCCS, first reported by Reuters in October, suggested that 12 substances used in hundreds of perfumes on the market today are limited to 0.
A senior perfume manufacturer says 01% of the finished products are not feasible.
SCCS have proposed a total ban on tree moss and oak moss, which scientists say are strong allergens.
If the European Commission implements the SCCS recommendation, IFRA estimates that about 9,000 perfume formulations must be changed.
This legislation may also touch the essence --
Suppliers and factories
In the South of France, Grasse and growers in Haiti, Indonesia and Malaysia.
Chanel has rose and jasmine fields in the Grasse area to guarantee the supply and mix the harvest of previous years to ensure the fragrance remains the same, because it may vary depending on the sun or rain there. Patrick Saint-
Yves, president of the French perfume creators Association (SFP)
Angry at the suggestion.
\"I just found a huge contradiction,\" St. Yves says.
\"We encourage the use of essential oils such as lavender in massages, but we would like to ban it in perfumes.
The store continues to sell alcohol and cigarettes that are more harmful.
\"Part of the problem is the secret of perfume.
Most perfume brands are reluctant to label their products.
Unlike artists and writers, perfume creators have no intellectual property rights to perfumes they create for big brands, so perfume brands strive to hide their recipes.
In 2005, consumer groups supported an EU law amendment that forced perfume brands to label any of the 26 potentially allergic ingredients.
These brands now list these ingredients. in Latin.
Now SCCS is proposing to expand the list to over 100 potential allergens.
These proposals also reveal the division of the perfume industry --
Lack of unity makes lobbying with one voice more difficult.
Brand owners such as Chanel and LVMH and perfume-
Manufacturers such as Coty, L\'Oreal, P & G, Givaudan and Symrise all have different targets.
LVMH and Chanel, with Dior and Guerlain, are lobbying Brussels to protect their perfumes, many of which were invented decades ago.
\"Protecting the cultural heritage of the European sense of smell is essential,\" LVMH told Reuters in an email statement . \".
However, the industry representative said that L\'Oreal has used many synthetic ingredients in its perfume, so keep a low profile on this issue.
Other companies that produce industrial-scale perfumes for luxury brands, such as IFF, Givaudan and Firmenich, are less concerned about SCCS advice because they can rely on synthetic materials, make new perfumes using synthetic materials, but if enforced, the restrictions are effective, forcing them to reformulate many of their scents on an unprecedented scale.
Givaudan and L\'Oreal declined to comment on the report.
At the moment, the European Commission says it is just \"reflecting\" on how to translate these proposals into legislation and stresses that it does not intend to ban any particular perfume.
It is difficult to completely ignore these suggestions.
European consumer group (BEUC)
The SCCS report is welcome to be \"thorough and evidence --
This is a starting point for future decision-making.
A senior executive of a leading luxury perfume brand said that the brand\'s own scientists have noticed that the frequency of allergies has increased over the past 15 years, partly due to pollution and nutrition.
\"It is true that we are now living in a world where dermatologists do not recommend any perfume at all,\" the perfume supervisor said . \".
Luxury perfume brands are worried that the EU\'s upcoming measures to protect consumers from allergies may weaken the $25 billion global industry.
New laws may severely restrict or prohibit the use of natural ingredients in wine
Some perfume manufacturers have closed down.
But the legislation proposed by Brussels
A draft will be released early next year
It also caused a sensation for another reason.
It reveals the best-
Keep it secret in the industry: Many big brands have been adjusting their recipes for years.
\"This is a taboo in the industry.
People are afraid to comment on this, \"said Fflur Roberts, head of luxury at market research firm Euromonitor.
So far, the change in perfume formula is due to the increasing self-limitation of the industry
Regulatory Authority of the international Spice Association (IFRA)
Despite the shortage or cost of raw materials
Cutting also played a certain role. A new Europe-
Broader laws will force tougher adjustments.
The most affected brands will be those that have been in the perfume industry for more than half a century, such as Dior, Chanel and Guerlain.
All of these perfumes use many natural ingredients that were invented before scientists began to study the potential health hazards of perfumes. Chanel’s No.
One of the best in the world
The sale of perfume, named after its creator\'s fifth trial, was created in 1921.
Chanel declined to comment on whether it changed the world\'s pattern.
The same is true of the famous perfumes, Guerlain, Dior and luxury brands Hermes.
Perfume using natural ingredients.
Most luxury perfume brands do not want to disclose the fact that they have to adjust their perfume for fear of losing customers or damaging the luxury brands they have carefully nurtured.
However, it is difficult for perfume lovers to fool.
\"Consumers know their perfumes better than any expert,\" said Jean Guichard, head of the perfume school founded in Paris in 1946 by Swiss perfume maker Givaudan.
\"We didn\'t say anything to consumers, but they noticed that they might decide to choose another product when their fragrance is changed.
Brands need to be careful when reformulating fragrances because they may lose consumers.
\"If new or even stricter rules are adopted, hundreds of perfumes will have to be reformulated with synthetic allergens --free contents.
Many in the industry are concerned that this could threaten their business.
\"I\'m done before FA, and my perfume is full of these ingredients,\" Frederic Malle, who has high
End the company version of the perfume Frederick Mahler.
The impact on the entire luxury perfume brand will be \"like an atomic explosion, we will not be able to rebuild ourselves,\" he said.
Most of the premium perfumes are made of a mixture of natural ingredients and synthetic molecules.
Perfumes are made up of alcohol-diluted concentrates, usually from beets.
Depending on the complexity of the original recipe, it may take several hundred thousand euros to change a scent.
Perfume manufacturers say replacing natural ingredients with synthetic ingredients is rarely an improvement.
Since its establishment in 1973, IFRA-funded by perfume manufacturers such as Givaudan, New York-
Listed international spices and Germany\'s Symrise limit natural ingredients for a range of health reasons, from concerns about allergic reactions to concerns about cancer.
\"Most perfumes aged 20 or over have been reformulated several times because science has evolved and we want to ensure the safety of consumers,\" said Pierre Sivac, president of IFRA . \".
In recent decades, many perfume creators have considered the traditional essence of their craft core to be blacklisted.
Birch tar was removed from Guerlain\'s Shalimar a few decades ago because it was considered a cancer risk.
Clove oil and rose oil contain an ingredient called clove oil. Lavender contains linalool and can only be used in limited quantities if allergic.
Oakmoss is one of the most commonly used raw materials because it has a rich soil fragrance and is able to \"fix\" the perfume to last longer, which has become increasingly restricted due to concerns about skin sensitivity.
This means perfume like charymar.
5, according to industry experts, Dior\'s light dishes and poison, the opium of Yves Saint Laurent and the Anais of Kaka Harrell are just shadows of their original sense of smell self.
\"Eau Sauvage is a real original chef,\" retired perfume --
Pierre Bolden, the manufacturer of the creation of Dior\'s \"sweet life\" and Yves Saint Laurent\'s \"couse\", mentioned the fragrance of 1966.
\"It used to be very green and fresh.
Today, it has been replaced by something softer and more dull.
\"He argues that the smell has been stripped of by furocoumarins, an organic compound produced by plants such as bergamot, and exposure to the sun can lead to black spots on the skin.
Bolden said he was still wearing light perfume because it reminded him of his father, Rene, who served as deputy head of Dior perfume in the 1960 and 1970 s, overseeing the creation of the perfume.
Raymond Chalan worked together to create Annis and opium, both of which he believes have changed.
When it was launched in 1977, the original opium contained eugenol, as well as linalool and lemon.
Large doses of eugenol can cause liver damage, while linalool oxide can cause external sensation and exposure to pure lemon for a long time can stimulate the skin.
Edward fleshyer, who made Dior Poison in 1985, said perfume has changed since it came out.
\"I know the original formula. I think they (Dior)
Had to change gradually due to the new IFRA regulations.
Malle said: \"natural ingredients are softer than synthetic ingredients, giving perfume more depth and playing a subtle role on various notes, adding that, the limitations of IFRA gave him \"hundreds of hours\" and \"endless testing \".
However, if the industry has so far largely got rid of the dilemma of quietly adjusting perfumes, experts say it would be impossible if Europe supported the proposal to remove allergic substances from perfumes --
It\'s completely the manufacturer\'s palette.
Brigitte Aubert, 68year-
The old Paris interior designer gave it up in 1980 seconds after being allergic to Shalimar.
\"My neck is red, but I wear Shalimar all the time.
It\'s part of my identity and I can\'t give it up, \"she said.
\"It reminds me of those carefree days in Paris in the 1960 s.
\"Aubert is one of an estimated 5 million to 15 million people, accounting for 1 to 3% of the EU population, who are allergic or potentially allergic to natural ingredients contained in fine perfumes, according to a report issued by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety on July (SCCS)
An advisory body of the European Commission
Symptoms can range from severe rashes to spots to hayfever-like symptoms.
Europe is not the only region that pays more attention to the influence of perfumes.
Earlier this year, Republican Senator Michelle Peckham from New Hampshire proposed a bill in the State Council banning state employees in public contact from using strong perfumes.
The bill was not passed, but other lawmakers are considering re-introducing similar legislation.
At the same time, Portland, Oregon requires public workers and citizens who visit and use public spaces to restrict the use of fragrance products.
Some hospitals in the United StatesS.
Perfume is also prohibited.
The SCCS, first reported by Reuters in October, suggested that 12 substances used in hundreds of perfumes on the market today are limited to 0.
A senior perfume manufacturer says 01% of the finished products are not feasible.
SCCS have proposed a total ban on tree moss and oak moss, which scientists say are strong allergens.
If the European Commission implements the SCCS recommendation, IFRA estimates that about 9,000 perfume formulations must be changed.
This legislation may also touch the essence --
Suppliers and factories
In the South of France, Grasse and growers in Haiti, Indonesia and Malaysia.
Chanel has rose and jasmine fields in the Grasse area to guarantee the supply and mix the harvest of previous years to ensure the fragrance remains the same, because it may vary depending on the sun or rain there. Patrick Saint-
Yves, president of the French perfume creators Association (SFP)
Angry at the suggestion.
\"I just found a huge contradiction,\" St. Yves says.
\"We encourage the use of essential oils such as lavender in massages, but we would like to ban it in perfumes.
The store continues to sell alcohol and cigarettes that are more harmful.
\"Part of the problem is the secret of perfume.
Most perfume brands are reluctant to label their products.
Unlike artists and writers, perfume creators have no intellectual property rights to perfumes they create for big brands, so perfume brands strive to hide their recipes.
In 2005, consumer groups supported an EU law amendment that forced perfume brands to label any of the 26 potentially allergic ingredients.
These brands now list these ingredients. in Latin.
Now SCCS is proposing to expand the list to over 100 potential allergens.
These proposals also reveal the division of the perfume industry --
Lack of unity makes lobbying with one voice more difficult.
Brand owners such as Chanel and LVMH and perfume-
Manufacturers such as Coty, L\'Oreal, P & G, Givaudan and Symrise all have different targets.
LVMH and Chanel, with Dior and Guerlain, are lobbying Brussels to protect their perfumes, many of which were invented decades ago.
\"Protecting the cultural heritage of the European sense of smell is essential,\" LVMH told Reuters in an email statement . \".
However, the industry representative said that L\'Oreal has used many synthetic ingredients in its perfume, so keep a low profile on this issue.
Other companies that produce industrial-scale perfumes for luxury brands, such as IFF, Givaudan and Firmenich, are less concerned about SCCS advice because they can rely on synthetic materials, make new perfumes using synthetic materials, but if enforced, the restrictions are effective, forcing them to reformulate many of their scents on an unprecedented scale.
Givaudan and L\'Oreal declined to comment on the report.
At the moment, the European Commission says it is just \"reflecting\" on how to translate these proposals into legislation and stresses that it does not intend to ban any particular perfume.
It is difficult to completely ignore these suggestions.
European consumer group (BEUC)
The SCCS report is welcome to be \"thorough and evidence --
This is a starting point for future decision-making.
A senior executive of a leading luxury perfume brand said that the brand\'s own scientists have noticed that the frequency of allergies has increased over the past 15 years, partly due to pollution and nutrition.
\"It is true that we are now living in a world where dermatologists do not recommend any perfume at all,\" the perfume supervisor said . \".
